Hunt test setups

Judges score dogs on their natural ability to mark and remember a fall, on their hunting style, perseverance or courage. They are also scored on learned abilities such as steadiness, control, response and delivery. This non-competitive environment creates a very warm and communal atmosphere where everyone encourages each other to succeed.

Even though you have to remain quiet during the test, you should hear the round of applause afterward! First, we recommend you get familiar with the various terms used in Hunting Tests.

See the glossary here. The next step is to find a local AKC club who gives Retriever Hunting tests, which always take places on weekends. Go to one, or several, to see how they work. What are the treats that get your dog really pumped? Your dog is going to be burning a ton of calories. You have got to make sure that you are replenishing those calories between runs. If your dog is fond of oranges , I think an orange is a great treat for between runs.

The extra potassium helps with hydration balance. It is also a good idea to have some ice in the cooler. Remember that the hunt tests are meant to replicate the hunting experience.

As such, the dress code for handlers is dark, hunting attire. Like everything else, it is probably a good idea to have a second something or other ready to go in the case of bad weather. One of your most serious priorities, however, is keeping you and your dog cool and protected from the sun. Sunstroke is a serious concern in any hunt test with hot weather. Unlike humans, dogs do not sweat to control their temperature on hot days. The only thing that dogs can do to keep their temperature low is panting.

When that is not enough, their internal temperature can rise to dangerous, and even fatal levels. I suggest you take a portable umbrella or even a canopy that you can set up at your truck. Then, if you stake out your pooch, you can do that in the shade and she will be more likely to control her temperature.

Sometimes you can forget the most obvious of tools or necessities. Just put it in your pack now, if you have not already. I already mentioned that your most important priority or at least one of them is to protect you and your dog from the sun. A canopy will help you when you are at the truck. Sunscreen, however, will keep you from getting burned while you are moving from blind to blind and watching your dog work.

All hunt test will require some water work. It is likely that the water will be a small pond or another still body of water. The still water of small ponds is a breeding hotel for mosquitos and other irritating flying insects. One member of my hunting club suggested that I pack a couple of towels to dry off the dog after her run. If you put your dog back into the crate while she is still wet creates a sauna.

Make sure she is good and dry before you put her back in the truck. I have always liked cowboy hats and other wide-brimmed hats. On a hot, summer day, those hats can be very effective at protecting you and your face from an uncomfortable burn. As I was asking people from my retriever club, the one that was reiterated by almost everyone was this:. I think the best advice I can give is to do what I did: reach out to other handlers that are members of the club that is sponsoring the hunt test you have entered.

They will be familiar with the grounds and the possible issues that could arise. I was really shocked at how much help I received when I just asked a few questions.

It is fun to be with others who are so willing to help. Having never run a dog before, this AKC Junior Hunt Test Checklist would have been impossible to create with the input from others more experienced than me. Make sure you are drawing on the understanding and experience of those around you.

Trying to recreate the wheel will only frustrate you and cost you important time. On the flip side, the more questions you ask, the more likely you will be to pass these tests and get your dog titled even sooner. If you have more than one controlled break, your score will likely be too low for you to pass. It also indicates you have a lot more training to do!

If your dog breaks in Master, either when the marks are going down or on the honor, you will be dropped. There are no controlled breaks allowed at the Master level. Diversion birds may be used on a blind retrieve either after the dog has been sent for the blind or when the dog is returning from the blind. On a mark, a diversion bird can only occur while the dog is returning from a retrieve.

After completing the blind or retrieving the mark, your dog then must retrieve the diversion bird. Diversion birds are always shot or thrown in front of the dog so the dog can see the bird as it goes up into the air and as it falls.

In addition, there can be diversion shots in both Senior and Master. In a diversion shot, no bird is thrown. Often this shot will occur when the dog is walking to the line or just reaches the line.

In both Senior and Master you will have walk-ups with the dog walking under control at your side while birds are being shot. The judges will tell all the handlers in advance at what point they may give a command. You do not want your dog looking behind you when the marks are going off in front of you. Some handlers may have a misconception as to how a blind is judged. They assume that if their dog gets out there and eventually stumbles on a bird, it has run a good blind.

Of first importance in a blind is the initial line the dog takes. This does not mean that the dog has to line the blind. It means that if you give your dog a line, it should take that line for a reasonable distance and not peel off to return to an old mark, go to another area, or join the gallery for lunch.

If the dog does start towards a previous mark or towards something which offers suction, such as decoys, blow your whistle and handle. At times, handlers do not handle quickly enough. They let their dog get completely off the initial line before they blow their whistle. As a result, they can dig themselves a deep hole in which it may take innumerable whistles and casts to correct the dog, whereas a quick whistle might have gotten the dog back on track immediately.

Judges generally do not judge by the number of whistles blown. They judge as to how the dog is maintaining the initial line and how far the dog varies from this line; whether the dog challenges the blind by taking cover, ditches, and other obstacles on the way to the blind; and just how many whistle and cast refusals there are.

Does the dog sit? Is it attentive? Does it take the cast and make progress in the direction of the blind? Judges want to see if the dog is trying to work with the handler, or is it just romping around having a good time, totally out of control. The cleanest blind is one where you put your dog right on the bird.

This is also the safest as far as meeting the requirements of the judges. As you approach the end of the blind with your dog, make sure your dog is in a downwind position so it is able to wind the blind.

The number of whistle and cast refusals allowed becomes very stringent when you reach the Master level.

On occasion, you will be faced with a blind which has no obvious marker but where you are sent to an area. The bird is somewhere within this area. Occasionally two trees are used as the boundary, and other times you may even be sent into heavy cover or tules and have to trust your dog to hunt it up at the end. Again, try to put your dog in a position at the end of the blind where it can wind the bird.

In Senior, it is not uncommon to see handlers sending their dog on a blind without lining the dog up correctly.

Many times the dogs are not even looking in the direction of the blind. After the spine, the eyes should be lined up. Do not send your dog until it is focused on the correct line. With training and the use of drills, dogs learn to ignore old marks and diversions. Handling is challenging and interesting as you learn to work with and read your dog.